Technology constantly introduces new and better features to our marine electronics. Livewell systems are no exception and have evolved with the times. I can recall the days of clear plastic bins or eskies with aerators inside and buckets used for bailing water in and out. Not anymore though!

Today, keeping the catch alive is a lot easier because many boats have built-in livewells as part of their custom fit out.

There are a number of advantages to having a livewell in a boat. Tournament fishers, who must release fish alive, need an efficient system capable of maintaining or even improving the health of retained fish. Such a tank is also useful if you want to select a few fish for the table. It allows you to release any unwanted fish at the end of the day and pick out the ones you want to keep.

Some bream and bass anglers believe that releasing caught fish back into the school they came from can distress the rest of the school and stop them from biting. Temporarily using a livewell to store caught fish and then transporting them a short distance away from the productive area could be the answer.

Livewells keep fish healthy when you want to take some photographs as well. You can also show off your catch to your fishing buddies or admire your efforts yourself, without having to kill it.

If you’re like me and don’t mind some friendly competition, livewells can be used when fishing with your mates to keep your biggest fish or best limit for the day.

Australian Bass Tournaments (ABT) recommends that a livewell has a capacity of at least 60L, and be fitted with an aerator or recirculation pump. This size is the minimum and larger wells are certainly more comfortable for fish. A practical size really depends on the size of the boat and motor, and the species being targeted. When transporting water, you have to remember that it weighs around 1kg for every litre. This volume of weight isn’t fixed either, as water has the ability to move about, shifting weight distribution in the boat.

As a general rule, most serious tournament boats have a 100-150L livewell these days. At around 400mm deep, this size is ideal for carrying four big bass or ten nice bream. When placed inside the well, it’s best if they fit comfortably but you don’t want there to be too much room because the water will splash around, throwing fish about when you’re on the move.

Larger livewells often have dividers running down the centre. These have numerous holes that allow aerated water to penetrate the entire well. Apart from separating the catch, they have another important function. Dividers act as baffles, which slow the flow of water – stopping a sudden rush from one side to the other, which makes the boat unstable.

Dividers help to stop water splashing around in the well but once you start moving, it’s hard to stop it splashing out of its container.

By placing the access hole or holes away from the edges of the container and having them smaller than the actual top of the livewell, water tends to hit the top and splash back down. The ideal set-up is to have an opening with a down-turned lip that pushes the water back down as it rolls and splashes up the sides. Access holes should be big enough to easily get fish in and out of the well.

There are prefabricated aluminium livewells on the market. These may be an easy option but if you’re good with your hands, you can build your own. When building your own livewell, you can choose its size, shape and position in the boat.

Livewells require a pump to propel water into them. The best type of pump for this is the thru-hull style. They have a threaded intake that can be pushed from inside the boat through the transom, with a nut to hold it in place. Alternatively, the pump can sit in the bilge area and have a short hose running to it from a thru-hull fitting in the transom. Livewells also require an overflow and a drain; these can also be plumbed to run through hoses and exit the boat below the water line through the transom.

This type of system will fill the well with water from outside the boat. It doesn’t provide any form of recirculation or added aeration. It’s in this area that Australia has seen vast improvements in recent times. Anglers who are familiar with the American imported bass boats would be aware of the superior livewell set-ups they offer. The materials used in these great livewells are now available in Australia. Flow-Rite Controls Ltd, an American company, now has a branch in Australia and they sell the widest range of livewell and baitwell products I’ve ever seen.

Flow-Rite’s products include valves that sit in the bilge area and are attached to the fill and drain lines, as well as the intake pump. These valves are controlled via a push-pull cable, which has a control dial positioned within easy reach of the driver. This means that from the driver’s seat you can fill, recirculate or drain the water – all with the turn of a dial.

You’ll also find that Flow-Rite sell a selection of aerator heads that propel air into the water as it’s pumped into the tank. It’s these fine bubbles of air that stay in the water for longer before rising to the surface, providing an oxygen rich environment for the tank’s occupants.

To see more about the products Flow-Rite has to offer, check out the fact box and livewell diagram provided. You can also visit their website at [url=http://www.flow-rite.com/]. For trade enquiries or your nearest stockist, give Flow-Rite Controls Australia a call on 0438 332 488.

(1) Build your desired shape using any grade of plywood as the frame. At least 12mm thick ply will screw together best without bracing. Structural strength will be achieved when it’s glassed and painted.

(2) Paint the mixed fibreglass resin (1 to 1.5ml catalyst:100ml resin) inside the ply container reaching through the access holes. Mix around 500ml at a time in order to allow sufficient working time before the resin begins to gel.

(3) Add a full layer of chopped strand mat to the entire livewell and roll to remove air and spread excess resin. Add extra resin where needed, using a paint brush to wet the glass mat.

(4) Apply two more layers of mat and resin. Pay particular attention to joins and corners as they need to be strong.

(5) After the resin is almost tack free, brush on a thick coat of flow coat mixed with catalyst at the same ratio as the resin. This will produce a professional looking finish and waterproof the job. Extra resin and flow coat can be painted onto any other timber areas that will be exposed to water such as the underside of the access lid. When painting the underside of the lid keep it separate so that it doesn’t bond shut when the flow coat dries. Flow coat has a high build so ensure that there is enough room for the lid to close if you seal its edges.

(6) Acetone will clean up any mess. A pair of rubber or latex gloves is a must to protect the hands while carrying out the job.